Reticella History

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			RETICELLA
			From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia English woman wearing a reticella lace collar and cuffs tinted with yellow starch, c. 1614-1618 Pattern for reticella or point couppe from Vinciolo's Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts, 1609 reprint of 1587 edition Reticella (also reticello or in French point coupé or point couppe) is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century. Reticella was originally a form of cutwork in which threads were pulled from linen fabric to make a "grid" on which the pattern was stitched, primarily using buttonhole stitch. Later reticella used a grid made of thread rather than a fabric ground. Both methods resulted in a characteristic geometric design of squares and circles with various arched or scalloped borders. Books of patterns for reticella designed by Federico de Vinciolo (France, 1587) and Cesare Vecellio (Italy, probably from the 1590s but printed 1617) were popular and were frequently reprinted. Reticella developed into Punto in Aria. Punto in Aria Punto in Aria (literally stitch in air) is an early form of Needle lace, devised in Italy. It is considered the first true lace because it was the first meant to be stitched alone, and not first onto a woven fabric. It is a closely related needle lace to Reticella, and their designs have many similarities when compared side-by-side. However, the Punto in Aria was an important improvement on the Reticella method, and was a breakthrough in needle lace design History The Reticella was the design that was the catalyst of the transition between fabrics made into lace by subtracting threads after needling, and lace made from scratch without fabric support. The Reticella design required one to draw out threads after stitching onto fabric. As that design evolved, an increasing number of threads required withdrawing. Eventually, so many threads were drawn-out that the foundation became very flimsy and lace makers devised a new framework that did not require original foundation fabric. This was to be known as Punto in Aria. Design Punto in Aria retains many of the characteristics of Reticella but also is able to go beyond the geometric framework. The lace makers devised a linen and parchment base for their work. This base consisted of two or three layers of fabric with the parchment pattern on top. The layers was then basted together. The pattern was then lain over with a gimp which was basted down through the pattern and layers of support fabric. When the lace was finished, the basting stitches were cut between the layers thus leaving only the Lace Federico de Vinciolo Title page to 1609 edition of Les Singuliers Federico de Vinciolo or Federico Vinciolo was a sixteenth century lace-maker and pattern designer attached to the court of Henry II of France. He was granted a monopoly on manufacturing lace ruffs in France. His book of needlework patterns, Les Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtaicts, was published in many editions between 1587 and 1623. An unabridged reprint of a 1909 facisimile of this book was issued by Dover Books as Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint in 1971. Cesare Vecellio (c. 1530- c. 1601) was an Italian painter and engraver of the Renaissance, active in Venice. He was the cousin of the painter Titian. Like Titian, he was born at Cadore in the Veneto. He accompanied Titian to Augsburg in 1548, and seems to have worked as his assistant. Many of Cesare's pictures were ascribed, perhaps knowingly, to Titian. In the Milan Pinacoteca there is a small Trinity by Cesare. He died at Venice. The woodcuts for the contemporary fashion book, De gli Habiti Antichi e Modérni di Diversi Parti di Mondo published in Venice in 1590 by Cesare, in large may belong to Christopher Krieger from Nuremberg. Cesare also published a book of prints depicting the jewels of royal crowns, titled Corona delle nobili e virtuose donne (1591). Cesare's brother, Fabrizio di Cadore or Ettore, was little known beyond his native place, for the Council-hall of which he is said to have painted a fine picture. He died in 1580.

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